Actives in cosmeceutical products are the ingredients that cause a biological effect on the skin. Some examples of an active are niacinimide (vitamin B3) which helps repair the skin barrier , peptides which stimulate the production of collagen, etc. Sunscreen or SPF is not considered an 'active' since it is designed to especially NOT penetrate the outer layer of skin.


Allantoin is an ingredient included in good formulations to improve the skin's moisture retaining property. It gives a smoothing effect to skin and also acts as an anti-irritant. It is a perfect ingredient for sensitive, dry and dehydrated skin types.

Anti oxidants

Age, UV light, pollution, toxins, irritants, smoking, etc. all produce Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) that cause progressive damage to our skin if left unchecked. ROS are unstable molecules that need to be neutralized. Anti oxidants do that. Whether we take them in the diet or apply them in our creams or both, anti oxidants are the cornerstone of protection against the damaging effects of air borne pollution (including dust). Without them skin damage will appear much faster and with more intensity. Many regions of the Arabian Peninsula record all 3 of the highest ambient temperatures, lowest humidity levels and highest quantity of natural wind blown dust AT THE SAME TIME. (see diagram). Such conditions create an enormous 'free radical assault' on our skin. For this reason BLOOM products contain the most powerful and potent antioxidants known to be effective in neutralizing free radicals. Avoidance of the the effects of sunshine and pollutants is the single most important thing you can do to protect your skin from premature ageing. Eating a diet rich in anti oxidants and using anti-oxidant rich products is the second. All BLOOM cosmetics contain the most effective antioxidants targeting environmental skin stressors.


Bisabolol is an anti inflammatory and anti irritation ingredient that is included in skin care formulations for its excellent soothing effect. It protects skin against daily environmental aggressors including intense heat, dust and pollution. All BLOOM products contain bisabolol.

Chemical exfoliation

Is gentle and gradual exfoliation of the skin using hydroxy acids and retinoids that dissolve the 'glue' that holds dead skin cells to the skin. Suitable for all skin types, this method of exfoliation reduces the possibility of scarring and injury that can happen with harsh skin scrubs, especially in darker skinned people. Chemical exfoliants increase cellular turnover leaving skin smoother, more radiant and even toned. Potential for hyper-pigmentation is lessened. Fine lines are diminished and hydration is improved. Collagen formation is stimulated by the increased cellular turnover. Our glycolic 17 and 20 creams are both chemical exfoliants.


Collagen is a collection of proteins produced by the fibroblasts. It provides the scaffolding or structural framework to the skin. A loss of collagen is what causes skin to 'sag' contributing to an aged look. We lose approx 1% of collagen every year after the age of 20. Collagen creams designed to increase collagen in the skin do not work as the molecules of collagen are too large to pass through the skin barrier.


Collagenesis means 'making collagen'. Actives in skin care that stimulate the fibroblasts to make collagen are peptides, niacinimide (vitamin B3 )retinoids/bakuchiol, glycolic and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).BLOOM skincare delivers ALL these actives in their safest but most efffective concentrations.


The word cosmeceutical commonly describes scientific skincare that contains clinically researched active ingredients that are known to have a biological and beneficial effect on the skin.
Unlike simple moisturisers whose focus is to just moisturise the top layer of skin, cosmeceuticals are formulated to penetrate deeper into the layers of the skin where they create lasting benefits at a cellular level. Cosmeceuticals are results driven and when formulated in the most effective concentrations, in the most stable formats and delivered through the correct medium, these products can, and will, produce significant improvements in the appearance of the skin within 1-6 months.


The dermis is the middle layer of the skin and lies under the epidermis but over the fat layer. It houses the essential tissues (fibroblasts) that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. It is approx the thickness of 10-20 sheets of photocopy paper and it is the layer that suffers the most with age. Collagen and elastin give the skin its suppleness, and scaffolding but when these proteins begin to break down with age the result is saggy, wrinkly skin.


Emollient ingredients soften and smooth the skin. They are composed mainly of lipids and oils and act by filling in the spaces in the bricks and mortar arrangement of the stratum corneum. Most emollients also have an occlusive activity – eg. shea and cocoa butter soften and smooth skin and also prevent water loss. Many also have an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action.


Our skin is divided into 3 distinct layers. The epidermis, the dermis and the subcutaneous fat layer.
The top layer is the epidermis, it is the layer we see and project to the world and is about the thickness of one sheet of photocopy paper. It is divided into 5 separate layers, the very outermost layer of those 5 layers is called the stratum corneum and despite it being only about 1/10th of the thickness of one piece of paper – the health, strength, hydration and even tone of this layer is what almost all skincare is ultimately about.

Ethyl Ascobic Acid

This is a very stable and less stinging derivative of Vitamin C. A powerful antioxidant to fight free radicals it is also one of the gold standard ingredients for reducing melanin production. Using a cream with ethyl ascorbic acid can be an excellent protector against developing a 'pregnancy mask'. Our Phyto Retinol Night Cream and Collagenesis Day Creams both contain ethyl ascorbic acid.

Exhausted complexion

An exhausted complexion is a term dermatologists often use to describe a complexion that that is dull, sallow, ashy, rough and looks dehydrated. It has no visible radiance or energy.


Fibroblasts make up most of the dermis, the middle layer of the skin. Fibroblasts are the cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. This means that the fibroblasts are responsible for the skin's volume, elasticity, and strength. Older skin has fewer fibroblasts that younger skin. They are damaged by advancing age, UV rays, environmental and lifestyle damage. An increasing number of scientific studies are linking atmospheric pollution to a reduction in fibroblasts in the skin.

Hyaluronic (pronounced; hi – al - your –onic) Acid

Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in human skin and it is one of the key elements contributing to skin hydration, skin volume and a youthful appearance. But the amount diminishes with age. We can stimulate the skin to produce more with specialist ingredients but we will never reach as much as we had in our youth. As a cosmetic ingredient, hyaluronic acid has fast become a 'hero' humectant ingredient– ie it draws water from the nearest source and holds onto it, just like a magnet. It is widely reported that as a cosmetic ingredient it can hold approx 1,000 times its weight in water, especially if the atmospheric humidity is 80% or more.
When the atmospheric relative humidty is less than 80% (which it usually is in the Middle East), the hyaluronic acid in your cream will pull water from the closest source – which will unfortunately be the deeper layers of your skin. That precious (stolen) water will then almost immediately evaporate unless the formula contains a good occlusive. The net result is dehydrated skin.
Be aware also that hyaluronic acid's effect of giving a youthful appearance is only temporary because its large molecular size doesn't allow it to penetrate the epidermis. Once removed it no longer attracts water to itself. For this reason much of the marketing of hyaluronic acid is misleading.
You will read sodium hyaluronate on the ingredient lists of both our Collagenesis Day Cream and Phyto Retinol Night Cream. Sodium hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid and has a smaller molecular weight than large size hyaluronic acid. It penetrates the skin better. So yes we do use it – but not just for trying to create a temporary 'plumped up' effect. We use it because it is an essential penetration enhancer to help all the other potent, specialist ingredients to reach as deep into the skin as possible. And of course we include a superior occlusive!


Hyperpigmentation happens when a specific part of your skin darkens compared to your baseline colour. It usually appears in shades of brown, some light, others darker. The colours of hyper-pigmented marks gives us an indication of how deep in the skin the cluster of melanin is and therefore how difficult or easy it will be to reduce or remove it. Melanin deposited in the upper layers of the skin (usually age spots) shows as light or dark brown marks but melanin deposited in the deeper dermal layer appears as blue-grey and is more difficult to fade. The blue grey variety of hyper-pigmentation is much rarer than the brown type. There are 3 types of hyperpigmentation. 1. Melasma. This is usually seen as symmetrical brown patches, usually occuring in the face and more commonly in females especially between the age of 20 and 40. Melasma can be very stubborn to treat Causes of Melasma include but are not limited to ⦁ Pregnancy (pregnancy mask) ⦁ • Sun exposure ⦁ • Hormonal treatments ⦁ • Certain medications ⦁ • An underactive thyroid gland 2. Age spots, freckles, liver spots. Solar hyperpigmentation. This kind of hyper-pigmentation occurs on areas frequently exposed to UV light (sun). The spots are not usually symetrical and can be scattered about on face, hands, chest, arms etc. Easier to fade than melasma they respond better to suitable actives in your day and night cream. Prevention with SPF is naturally the most intelligent way of preventing them in the first place. 3.Post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation. (PIH) As its name suggests this is hyper-pigmentation that occurs due to inflammation. The inflammation is a result of infection or injury. This type of hyperpigmentation is more common in darker skinned people hence the importantance of avoiding harsh products, peels and surgery where possible. Those with acne should never pick at their skin for fear of permanent scarring. the BLOOM regime targets hyper-pigmentation with many different actives, each has a specific role to play in preventing and fading pigmentation. One product alone will not be sufficient to create a measurable difference. If hyperpigmentation is an issue for you please try to adhere to the complete product regime.

Licorice extract, (Glycyrrhiza glabra)

An excellent anti inflammatory, anti oxidant and anti microbial extract obtained from the licorice plant, it is now widely used in cosmeceuticals for its multi-tasking ability to effectively reduce hyperpigmentation, soothe irritated skin and reduce inflammation. Irritation and inflammation are the first steps that lead to hyper-pigmentation. BLOOM Phyto Retinol Night Cream contains licorice extract.

Mechanical exfoliation

Is exfoliation of the skin using brushes, scrubs, wash cloths or tiny granular beads that physically exfoliate the dead skin cells on our outermost layer of skin. Suitable for all skin types except rosacea and ultra sensitive, mechanical exfoliation stimulates collagen, smooths rough skin and increases radiance. Those with darker skin tones should take extra care to avoid harsh or sharp mechanical exfoliants which can cause scarring.


Occlusives in a formula create a barrier over the skin and prevent water loss from the surface. Some common natural occlusives are cocoa butter, squalane, shea butter and beeswax. Paraffin and liquid petrolatum are occlusives but are not natural and do not have any skin nourishing value. BLOOM products contain a number of occlusives including but not limited to squalane and shea butter.


Peptides are chains of amino acids which are the simplest form of proteins. They are considered very valuable anti ageing actives but only if formulated with penetration enhancers.
There are 3 types of peptides in skincare – signal peptides, carrier peptides and neurotransmitter peptides.
Signal peptides stimulate our fibroblasts to produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Carrier peptides carry specific substances into cells. Copper tripeptide is a carrier peptide that carries copper, necessary for the formation of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, into the cells.
Neurotransmitter peptides immitate neurotoxins like Botox and Dysport. They are supposed to decrease the action of facial muscles and thereby reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
BLOOM Collagenesis Day cream contains all 3 types of peptides and is formulated with penetration enhancers to create the maximum benefit.


Are tiny little chemicals found in plants. They are sometimes called phytochemicals which simply means 'a chemical from a plant' Polyphenols contain excellent antioxidants which protects the plant from climatic conditions and ultraviolet light. It is exactly because of this action that we include native botanical extracts in our formulae as native plants are exposed to exactly the same harsh climatic conditions as we are. All BLOOM products contain a wide variety of well researched polyphenols.

Vitamin A Analogue

Has no structural resemblance to vitamin A at all but delivers the same results as a retinoid (vitamin A). Eg bakuchiol

Vitamin B3 Niacinimide

Helps improve the skin barrier function resulting in less trans-epidermal water loss and greater skin resiliency to environmental aggressors such as dust, heat and other irritants. Reduces skin yellowing and sagging as well as the appearance of surface lines and pore size giving an improved skin texture and smoothness. An excellent active to include to reduce hyperpigmentation and balance sebum production. Our Phyto Retinol Night Cream and Collagenesis Day Creams both contain Niacinimide.

Air quality index

Air quality index is a measure of the quality of air in a particular area at a particular time. It measures microscopic sized particulate matter PM2.5 ug/m3 and larger sized molecules PM10 ug/m3 .. The microscopic contaminants of PM 2.5 ug/m3 are approx. 50 times smaller than the width of one human hair and can penetrate a damaged skin barrier setting up a chain of negative events in the skin . When PM2.5 ug/m3 levels are above 25 micrograms/m3 your skin is vulnerable. Download IQAir AirVisual app to get a daily report for your city. Scroll down to find the PM2.5 ug/m3 . *Natural wind-blown dust is a major contributor to high levels of PM2.5 ug/m3 in the Arabian Peninsula. In Kuwait PM2.5 ug/m3 is rarely below 25 ug/m3

Anti inflammatory

Anti inflammatory agents act to prevent AND reduce inflammation. If inflammation is already present anti inflammatories calm the heat, pain, redness and swelling associated with inflammation.
Inflammation is easily visible in a large wound but when it comes to facial skincare very often inflammation is microscopic and not easily seen with the naked eye. Because of this we are often unaware of it yet it starts a chain of negative reactions in the skin leading to sensitivity, hyperpigmentation, a damaged skin barrier with increased dehydration, breakdown of collagen and elastin and an increase in free radicals (aka ROS) etc.
Inflammation of facial skin happens after exposure to intense heat, irritants & allergens, as a result of friction, injury, emotion and infectious agents. Harsh cleansers and excessive physical exfoliation can also cause inflammation.
Inflammation is nearly always present in sensitive skin types, heavy makeup users and those with a compromised skin barrier. For those of us living in the hotter countries of the Arabian Peninsula including anti inflammatory agents in our skin care is essential. ALL BLOOM products contain the most efficious anti inflammatory actives.


See phyto retinol.


Ceramides are a complex family of lipids (fats). In the stratum corneum they make up 50% of the lipid matrix in the bricks and mortar arrangement . Essential for the maintanence of a healthy skin barrier, ceramides must be used in the perfect ratio of ceramides: cholesterol : essential fatty acids. Without the correct ratio the skin barrier is disrupted and trans epidermal water loss is increased leading to dry and dehydrated skin. BLOOM delivers all these essential components.


Is one of the key components in restoring and repairing the skin barrier. Combined with ceramides and essential fatty acids in the perfect ratio, cholesterol can help restore the skin barrier to a healthy condition. BLOOM Collagenesis Day Cream contains cholesterol in the perfect ratio to ceramides and essential fatty acids.


Collagen is a collection of proteins produced by the fibroblasts. It provides the scaffolding or structural framework to the skin. A loss of collagen is what causes skin to 'sag' contributing to an aged look. We lose approx 1% of collagen every year after the age of 20. Collagen creams designed to increase collagen in the skin do not work as the molecules of collagen are too large to pass through the skin barrier.

Copper triPeptide

Copper triPeptide is thought to stimulate fibroblasts (located in the lower layers of the skin) to produce more collagen and natural hyaluronic acid. Copper triPeptide is also an anti-oxidant and an anti-inflammatory. BLOOM Collagenesis Day Cream contains Copper triPeptide

Date Seed Extract

A powerful antioxidant naturally found in date seeds that protects the date palm from the damaging rays of intensely hot sun. In the GCC some date plam trees are exposed to daily temperatures in excess of 50 degrees C. The antioxidant this plant must produce is obviously very potent to allow the plant to survive and even bear fruit! It's poweful action together with its clinically proven efficiency made it the most natural and intelligent choice for us to included in our Collagenesis Day and Phyto-Retinol Night Creams. .


Elastin is what gives our skin elasticity or the ability to 'bounce back'. Fibroblasts in the deeper dermal layer of our skin produce elastin. Up to this date there is no reliable scientific evidence to suggest that any cosmeceutical active assists in the production of elastin. Once elastin is destroyed by UV, environmental or lifestyle factors it cannot be replaced. That is why it is essential to protect the skin from elastin-damaging elements from an early age.

Enzymatic exfoliation

Offering the same benefits as chemical exfoliation but much less strong, enzymatic exfoliation commonly uses pineapple and/or papaya extracts to exfoliate dead skin cells. Best suited to ultra sensitive skin types.

Essential fatty acids

Essential fatty acids are oils that the body cannot make itself. They must be applied to the skin (topical application) or eaten as part of the daily diet. Essential fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol (all in the correct ratio), are vital to a healthy skin barrier. A lack of any one of these components will disrupt the skin barrier leaving the skin vunerable to sensitization, dehydration, roughness, inflammation and oxidative stress. BLOOM Collagenesis Day Cream is formulated with that perfect ratio of essential fatty acids to ceramides and cholesterol.

Evidence based

This term, when used to refer to actives used in skin care, means that there is accurate, true and demonstrable evidence that this active or ingredient works. In the case of BLOOM we have chosen active ingredients based on the published evidence gained from well designed clinical trials.

Extrinsic Ageing

Extrinsic ageing refers to ageing due to environmental and lifestyle factors such as exposure to UV light, pollution, smoking, diet, exercise, stress, medications, diseases and poor sleep hygiene. The two worst culprits are exposure to UV light and smoking. All the above contributing factors create oxidative stress and some factors such as pollution, smoking etc also give rise to inflammation. Oxidative stress and inflammation are thought to be the biggest precursors to ageing.


Are substances that attract and chemically bind water to the skin. In temperate climates they are key to hydration. Examples of humectants are glycerine, hyaluronic acid, urea, butylene glycol and sorbitol. Please read the blog post 'Hyaluronic acid, Plump up your knowledge' to fully understand how humecants can have the potential to cause greater dryness over time if not formulated with an added occlusive.

Hydroxy Acids

Hydroxy acids are chemical exfoliators which encourage exfoliation of dead skin cells. They work by breaking down the glue that holds dead skin cells (corneocytes) together. Hydroxy acids are one of the most effective radiance enhancing and anti ageing ingredients available to cosmetic formulators. There are 3 types, - Alpha which include glycolic, lactic, citric and mallic acid. Most alpha hydroxy acids come from sugar in fruits except lactic which is found in milk. BLOOM Radiance Renewal 17 and 20 are both exfoliators containing glycolic acid. Phyto Retinol Night Cream contains lactic acid. - Beta hydroxy acid, aka salicylic acid, previously obtained from the willow tree but now more commonly synthetically produced, is the best hydroxy acid to use for acne, clogged pores and blackheads. - Polyhydroxy acids are the most gentle of all hydroxy acids but the efficacy is much less than glycolic.
* SPF 15 or higher should always be worn when using hydroxy acid products.

Intrinsic ageing

Is natural skin ageing that happens as our bodies get naturally older. Cell numbers decrease, cell turnover slows down, blood circulation is lessened and fewer fibroblasts produce less collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Falling hormone levels will also contribute to more profound ageing effects especially with regard to the distribution of fat on the face. This is all natural and normal and largely genetically controlled. Intrinsic ageing does not become obvious in well cared for skin until one is well into their 70"s


Matrixyl is a synthetic complex of peptides designed to stimulate fibroblasts to produce more collagen. Well known and researched by cosmetic chemists it has been repeatedly shown to not only improve wrinkles but also to improve the tone and elasticity of the skin. BLOOM Collagenesis Day Cream contains Matrixyl


A neurotoxin is a poisonous substance that acts on the nervous system and disrupts the normal function of nerve cells. Botox and Dysport are both neurotoxins widely used by cosmetic dermatologists. They are used to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by paralysing the underlying muscles. They are used in the tiniest and safest concentrations.

Oxidative stress

Oxidative stress happens when there are not enough anti oxidants available to neutralise the damaging Reactive Oxygen Species. Sunlight, age, stress, irritants, pollution, smoking etc all result in decreasing the quantity of natural anti -oxidants we normally produce ourselves. If we don't neutralize these free radicals they will quickly begin their skin damaging assault which is called oxidate stress.

Phyto retinol

A plant based vitamin A analogue, phyto retinol refers to the ingredient Bakuchiol which offers many of the same benefits as retinol, including the ability to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and the effects of sun/environmental damage but without causing any of the potential nasty side effects of retinol. It is safe to use when pregnant and when breastfeeding and will not oxidise in the presence of sunlight so may be used during the day unlike retinol which can only be applied at night and should not be used by pregnant or breastfeeding mums. BLOOM Phyto Retinol Night Cream Bakuchiol.

Skin barrier

Our outermost layer of skin is the epidermis (see diagram) and the outermost layer of the epidermis is called the stratum corneum. It is like a bricks and mortar wall. The cells are the bricks and the mortar around the bricks is called the lipid matrix and is made up of approx 15% essential fatty acids, 25% cholesterol and 50% ceramides. The stratum corneum's job is to be a barrier betweeen the inside and the outside of your body, When this barrier is damaged or compromised (not working so well) irritants, toxins and allergens can enter the skin setting up a cascade of negative events and precious water is allowed to evaporate out resulting in dry, rough, dehydrated skin.

Vitamin A/ Retinoids

In skin care vitamin A and its different forms are referred to as 'retinoids'. Vitamin A is considered the gold standard active for reducing the signs of photoageing and is an excellent treatment for acne. The strongest form of vitamin A is retinoic acid and in many countries it is only available on prescription. Retinol is the most common form of vitamin A included in cosmeceutical products but it can cause redness, flaking and is not stable in sunlight so should not be used in day creams. BLOOM uses Bakuchiol which is a vitamin A analogue ie. it gives the same skin benefits without any of the unpleasant side effects or stability problems usually associated with retinol.

Vitamin E

Is one of the most well known vitamins used in skincare for decades. It is a powerful anti-oxidant which neutralizes damaging free radicals. It's anti oxidant effect is also excellent in protecting oil-based products from oxidation. All BLOOM products contain vitamin E.