glossary

Actives in cosmeceutical products are the ingredients that cause a biological effect on the skin. Some examples of an active are niacinimide (vitamin B3) which helps repair the skin barrier , peptides which stimulate the production of collagen, etc. Sunscreen or SPF is not considered an 'active' since it is designed to especially NOT penetrate the outer layer of skin.

Allantoin is an ingredient included in good formulations to improve the skin's moisture retaining property. It gives a smoothing effect to skin and also acts as an anti-irritant. It is a perfect ingredient for sensitive, dry and dehydrated skin types.

Age, UV light, pollution, toxins, irritants, smoking, etc. all produce Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) that cause progressive damage to our skin if left unchecked. ROS are unstable molecules that need to be neutralized. Anti oxidants do that. Whether we take them in the diet or apply them in our creams or both, anti oxidants are the cornerstone of protection against the damaging effects of air borne pollution (including dust). Without them skin damage will appear much faster and with more intensity. Many regions of the Arabian Peninsula record all 3 of the highest ambient temperatures, lowest humidity levels and highest quantity of natural wind blown dust AT THE SAME TIME. (see diagram). Such conditions create an enormous 'free radical assault' on our skin. For this reason BLOOM products contain the most powerful and potent antioxidants known to be effective in neutralizing free radicals. Avoidance of the the effects of sunshine and pollutants is the single most important thing you can do to protect your skin from premature ageing. Eating a diet rich in anti oxidants and using anti-oxidant rich products is the second. All BLOOM cosmetics contain the most effective antioxidants targeting environmental skin stressors.

Bisabolol is an anti inflammatory and anti irritation ingredient that is included in skin care formulations for its excellent soothing effect. It protects skin against daily environmental aggressors including intense heat, dust and pollution. All BLOOM products contain bisabolol.

Is gentle and gradual exfoliation of the skin using hydroxy acids and retinoids that dissolve the 'glue' that holds dead skin cells to the skin. Suitable for all skin types, this method of exfoliation reduces the possibility of scarring and injury that can happen with harsh skin scrubs, especially in darker skinned people. Chemical exfoliants increase cellular turnover leaving skin smoother, more radiant and even toned. Potential for hyper-pigmentation is lessened. Fine lines are diminished and hydration is improved. Collagen formation is stimulated by the increased cellular turnover. Our glycolic 17 and 20 creams are both chemical exfoliants.

Collagen is a collection of proteins produced by the fibroblasts. It provides the scaffolding or structural framework to the skin. A loss of collagen is what causes skin to 'sag' contributing to an aged look. We lose approx 1% of collagen every year after the age of 20. Collagen creams designed to increase collagen in the skin do not work as the molecules of collagen are too large to pass through the skin barrier.

Collagenesis means 'making collagen'. Actives in skin care that stimulate the fibroblasts to make collagen are peptides, niacinimide (vitamin B3 )retinoids/bakuchiol, glycolic and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).BLOOM skincare delivers ALL these actives in their safest but most efffective concentrations.

The word cosmeceutical commonly describes scientific skincare that contains clinically researched active ingredients that are known to have a biological and beneficial effect on the skin.
Unlike simple moisturisers whose focus is to just moisturise the top layer of skin, cosmeceuticals are formulated to penetrate deeper into the layers of the skin where they create lasting benefits at a cellular level. Cosmeceuticals are results driven and when formulated in the most effective concentrations, in the most stable formats and delivered through the correct medium, these products can, and will, produce significant improvements in the appearance of the skin within 1-6 months.

The dermis is the middle layer of the skin and lies under the epidermis but over the fat layer. It houses the essential tissues (fibroblasts) that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. It is approx the thickness of 10-20 sheets of photocopy paper and it is the layer that suffers the most with age. Collagen and elastin give the skin its suppleness, and scaffolding but when these proteins begin to break down with age the result is saggy, wrinkly skin.

Emollient ingredients soften and smooth the skin. They are composed mainly of lipids and oils and act by filling in the spaces in the bricks and mortar arrangement of the stratum corneum. Most emollients also have an occlusive activity – eg. shea and cocoa butter soften and smooth skin and also prevent water loss. Many also have an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action.

Our skin is divided into 3 distinct layers. The epidermis, the dermis and the subcutaneous fat layer.
The top layer is the epidermis, it is the layer we see and project to the world and is about the thickness of one sheet of photocopy paper. It is divided into 5 separate layers, the very outermost layer of those 5 layers is called the stratum corneum and despite it being only about 1/10th of the thickness of one piece of paper – the health, strength, hydration and even tone of this layer is what almost all skincare is ultimately about.

This is a very stable and less stinging derivative of Vitamin C. A powerful antioxidant to fight free radicals it is also one of the gold standard ingredients for reducing melanin production. Using a cream with ethyl ascorbic acid can be an excellent protector against developing a 'pregnancy mask'. Our Phyto Retinol Night Cream and Collagenesis Day Creams both contain ethyl ascorbic acid.

An exhausted complexion is a term dermatologists often use to describe a complexion that that is dull, sallow, ashy, rough and looks dehydrated. It has no visible radiance or energy.

Fibroblasts make up most of the dermis, the middle layer of the skin. Fibroblasts are the cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. This means that the fibroblasts are responsible for the skin's volume, elasticity, and strength. Older skin has fewer fibroblasts that younger skin. They are damaged by advancing age, UV rays, environmental and lifestyle damage. An increasing number of scientific studies are linking atmospheric pollution to a reduction in fibroblasts in the skin.

Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in human skin and it is one of the key elements contributing to skin hydration, skin volume and a youthful appearance. But the amount diminishes with age. We can stimulate the skin to produce more with specialist ingredients but we will never reach as much as we had in our youth. As a cosmetic ingredient, hyaluronic acid has fast become a 'hero' humectant ingredient– ie it draws water from the nearest source and holds onto it, just like a magnet. It is widely reported that as a cosmetic ingredient it can hold approx 1,000 times its weight in water, especially if the atmospheric humidity is 80% or more.
When the atmospheric relative humidty is less than 80% (which it usually is in the Middle East), the hyaluronic acid in your cream will pull water from the closest source – which will unfortunately be the deeper layers of your skin. That precious (stolen) water will then almost immediately evaporate unless the formula contains a good occlusive. The net result is dehydrated skin.
Be aware also that hyaluronic acid's effect of giving a youthful appearance is only temporary because its large molecular size doesn't allow it to penetrate the epidermis. Once removed it no longer attracts water to itself. For this reason much of the marketing of hyaluronic acid is misleading.
You will read sodium hyaluronate on the ingredient lists of both our Collagenesis Day Cream and Phyto Retinol Night Cream. Sodium hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid and has a smaller molecular weight than large size hyaluronic acid. It penetrates the skin better. So yes we do use it – but not just for trying to create a temporary 'plumped up' effect. We use it because it is an essential penetration enhancer to help all the other potent, specialist ingredients to reach as deep into the skin as possible. And of course we include a superior occlusive!

Hyperpigmentation happens when a specific part of your skin darkens compared to your baseline colour. It usually appears in shades of brown, some light, others darker. The colours of hyper-pigmented marks gives us an indication of how deep in the skin the cluster of melanin is and therefore how difficult or easy it will be to reduce or remove it. Melanin deposited in the upper layers of the skin (usually age spots) shows as light or dark brown marks but melanin deposited in the deeper dermal layer appears as blue-grey and is more difficult to fade. The blue grey variety of hyper-pigmentation is much rarer than the brown type. There are 3 types of hyperpigmentation. 1. Melasma. This is usually seen as symmetrical brown patches, usually occuring in the face and more commonly in females especially between the age of 20 and 40. Melasma can be very stubborn to treat Causes of Melasma include but are not limited to ⦁ Pregnancy (pregnancy mask) ⦁ • Sun exposure ⦁ • Hormonal treatments ⦁ • Certain medications ⦁ • An underactive thyroid gland 2. Age spots, freckles, liver spots. Solar hyperpigmentation. This kind of hyper-pigmentation occurs on areas frequently exposed to UV light (sun). The spots are not usually symetrical and can be scattered about on face, hands, chest, arms etc. Easier to fade than melasma they respond better to suitable actives in your day and night cream. Prevention with SPF is naturally the most intelligent way of preventing them in the first place. 3.Post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation. (PIH) As its name suggests this is hyper-pigmentation that occurs due to inflammation. The inflammation is a result of infection or injury. This type of hyperpigmentation is more common in darker skinned people hence the importantance of avoiding harsh products, peels and surgery where possible. Those with acne should never pick at their skin for fear of permanent scarring. the BLOOM regime targets hyper-pigmentation with many different actives, each has a specific role to play in preventing and fading pigmentation. One product alone will not be sufficient to create a measurable difference. If hyperpigmentation is an issue for you please try to adhere to the complete product regime.

An excellent anti inflammatory, anti oxidant and anti microbial extract obtained from the licorice plant, it is now widely used in cosmeceuticals for its multi-tasking ability to effectively reduce hyperpigmentation, soothe irritated skin and reduce inflammation. Irritation and inflammation are the first steps that lead to hyper-pigmentation. BLOOM Phyto Retinol Night Cream contains licorice extract.

Is exfoliation of the skin using brushes, scrubs, wash cloths or tiny granular beads that physically exfoliate the dead skin cells on our outermost layer of skin. Suitable for all skin types except rosacea and ultra sensitive, mechanical exfoliation stimulates collagen, smooths rough skin and increases radiance. Those with darker skin tones should take extra care to avoid harsh or sharp mechanical exfoliants which can cause scarring.

Occlusives in a formula create a barrier over the skin and prevent water loss from the surface. Some common natural occlusives are cocoa butter, squalane, shea butter and beeswax. Paraffin and liquid petrolatum are occlusives but are not natural and do not have any skin nourishing value. BLOOM products contain a number of occlusives including but not limited to squalane and shea butter.

Peptides are chains of amino acids which are the simplest form of proteins. They are considered very valuable anti ageing actives but only if formulated with penetration enhancers.
There are 3 types of peptides in skincare – signal peptides, carrier peptides and neurotransmitter peptides.
Signal peptides stimulate our fibroblasts to produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Carrier peptides carry specific substances into cells. Copper tripeptide is a carrier peptide that carries copper, necessary for the formation of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, into the cells.
Neurotransmitter peptides immitate neurotoxins like Botox and Dysport. They are supposed to decrease the action of facial muscles and thereby reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
BLOOM Collagenesis Day cream contains all 3 types of peptides and is formulated with penetration enhancers to create the maximum benefit.

Are tiny little chemicals found in plants. They are sometimes called phytochemicals which simply means 'a chemical from a plant' Polyphenols contain excellent antioxidants which protects the plant from climatic conditions and ultraviolet light. It is exactly because of this action that we include native botanical extracts in our formulae as native plants are exposed to exactly the same harsh climatic conditions as we are. All BLOOM products contain a wide variety of well researched polyphenols.

Has no structural resemblance to vitamin A at all but delivers the same results as a retinoid (vitamin A). Eg bakuchiol

Helps improve the skin barrier function resulting in less trans-epidermal water loss and greater skin resiliency to environmental aggressors such as dust, heat and other irritants. Reduces skin yellowing and sagging as well as the appearance of surface lines and pore size giving an improved skin texture and smoothness. An excellent active to include to reduce hyperpigmentation and balance sebum production. Our Phyto Retinol Night Cream and Collagenesis Day Creams both contain Niacinimide.